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2008 "The Habitat" Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

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I met Gerald and Shaun Bybee somewhat by accident. They own a vineyard in the Russian River Valley and are making some wine from their own vineyard, under the “B” Vineyards and Habitat label. They made their wine in same facility as I did in 2008 and, as it turned out, had a little extra fruit available that they were willing to sell to me. So I jumped at the chance to pick up a small amount, even knowing that it might not be available for more than a year. When the fruit arrived I was struck by how clean and perfect the clusters were, and by how fresh and clear the flavors were in the berries that I sampled. I don’t think it’s a stretch to attribute some of this to the organic methods they use in the vineyard. We picked at very modest potential alcohol (I say we because I picked on the same day as they did) and the resulting wine is just over 13 percent alcohol, which I dare say is unusual for Russian River Pinot Noir. It has purity and “cut.” It is not inky-black like a Syrah, rather it has a pretty crimson color. It made me ponder a bit about how California Pinot Noir can, or should, taste. It’s a great example of what happens when you truly stay out of the way and let the land and the vines speak for themselves. 73 cases.

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